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== What is the Walstad Method? ==
 
[[Image:Five Litre Walstad tank.jpg|thumb|right|5 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with fish]]
 
[[Image:Five Litre Walstad tank.jpg|thumb|right|5 Litre Walstad tank set up in one day with fish]]
 
The Walstad Method is a method where organic, no-additive soil is placed on the bottom of the tank and capped with a gravel (or sand) layer. Once plants are added, the plant roots will reach the soil and get lots of nutrients that will fuel them to grow.
 
The Walstad method allows a 'no-filter' method of aquarium, giving a strong bacterial system and still effectively removing fish feces and different harsh materials in a tank.
 
  
 
This method of setting up an aquarium tank was made popular by [[Diana Walstad]], author of the book 'ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist'.
 
This method of setting up an aquarium tank was made popular by [[Diana Walstad]], author of the book 'ECOLOGY of the PLANTED AQUARIUM - A Practical Manual and Scientific Treatise for the Home Aquarist'.
  
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*Basically it's a natural planted tank with a substrate containing a soil underlayer.
  
 
== Alternative names ==
 
== Alternative names ==
Au naturel, NPT (Natural Planted Tank), Walstad Tank.
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El Natural, NPT (Natural Planted Tank), Walstad Tank.
  
  
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* 1 inch layer of inexpensive, generic potting soil (or "top soil") available from any garden centres or various home improvement stores. ([[Wikipedia:John Innes Compost|John Innes]] number 3 recipe is ideal).  Avoid soils containing chemical fertilizers (sulphates and nitrates will be converted to toxic H2S and nitrite after soil is submerged).  Phosphate and calcium fertilizers (i.e., a little bone meal mixed with soil) may be beneficial.  Get non-sterile 'aquatic pond soil' if it's available.
 
* 1 inch layer of inexpensive, generic potting soil (or "top soil") available from any garden centres or various home improvement stores. ([[Wikipedia:John Innes Compost|John Innes]] number 3 recipe is ideal).  Avoid soils containing chemical fertilizers (sulphates and nitrates will be converted to toxic H2S and nitrite after soil is submerged).  Phosphate and calcium fertilizers (i.e., a little bone meal mixed with soil) may be beneficial.  Get non-sterile 'aquatic pond soil' if it's available.
 
[[Image:John Innes front.jpg|thumb|Soil based compost - John Innes #3]]
 
[[Image:John Innes front.jpg|thumb|Soil based compost - John Innes #3]]
* 2 inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc)
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* 1 inch of medium fine gravel (or very shallow layer of sand) to cover the soil layer (the soil bacteria need oxygen, so don't smother the soil layer with rocks, driftwood, etc)
  
 
* If you have soft-water, you can mix in a calcium source (lime, coral gravel, shells, bone meal, etc) with the soil to make sure plants get enough calcium, GH for their initial set-up.
 
* If you have soft-water, you can mix in a calcium source (lime, coral gravel, shells, bone meal, etc) with the soil to make sure plants get enough calcium, GH for their initial set-up.
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* Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil.  Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.]  After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent.
 
* Do water changes as needed [some soils often require frequent water changes the first two months to remove miscellaneous toxins (e.g., wood oils) released by the soil.  Also, new soils invariably release algae-stimulating nutrients (Nitrogen) the first couple months.]  After tank is established, water changes can be very infrequent.
  
* You should wait at least two months while water parameters are established before adding aquatic animals; however, simple algae-controlling organisms such as feeder shrimp ("wild shrimp")  can be added prior to that point. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals).
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* You should wait at least two months while water parameters are established before adding aquatic animals; however, simple algae-controlling organisms such as feeder shrimp ("wild shrimp")  can be added prior to that point. It may be necessary (though unusual) during this "soil break-in period" to do some water changes to lower tannins. Some people use [[activated carbon]] in the filter if you wish to remove any yellow tannin effect (but realise these tannins are a health benefit to the tank animals.
  
 
* Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore.
 
* Monitor ammonia/nitrite levels for the first month. If you get any level above zero, act on them - perform a 25% water change! However if you add [[Prime]] or [[AmQuel Plus|AmQuel+]] daily for a month, you'll protect the tank occupants against any possible harm from ammonia/nitrite and eliminate this chore.
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* Consider adding small snails as these speed up the mulm breakdown. But not essential.
 
* Consider adding small snails as these speed up the mulm breakdown. But not essential.
 
* To prevent the buildup of hydrogen sulfide bubbles in the substrate, aerate the substrate by manually stirring it with a stick or planting deep rooting plants. The introduction of Malaysian Trumpet snails may also aid in regularly disturbing the soil.
 
 
   
 
   
 
* You'll need a water hardness ([[GH]]) of greater than 7d. To raise GH you can add [[coral gravel]] or clean sea shells and let them slowly dissolve.  However, adding a 4:1 mixture of calcium chloride and magnesium sulphate is one way to get the GH up immediately without increasing the pH.
 
* You'll need a water hardness ([[GH]]) of greater than 7d. To raise GH you can add [[coral gravel]] or clean sea shells and let them slowly dissolve.  However, adding a 4:1 mixture of calcium chloride and magnesium sulphate is one way to get the GH up immediately without increasing the pH.
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* Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
 
* Water Sprite (Ceratopteris thalictroides)
 
* Frog Bit (Limnobium laevigatum)
 
* Frog Bit (Limnobium laevigatum)
* For me (Water lettuce) grows great
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===These stem plants have always done well===
 
===These stem plants have always done well===
 
* Bacopa monnieri (waterhyssop, brahmi, thyme-leafed gratiola, water hyssop, herb of grace, Indian pennywort)
 
* Bacopa monnieri (waterhyssop, brahmi, thyme-leafed gratiola, water hyssop, herb of grace, Indian pennywort)
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===Articles===
 
===Articles===
*[http://thegab.org/Articles/PottedPlants.html How to: Pot Aquarium Plants in Topsoil by Betty Harris]
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[http://thegab.org/Articles/PottedPlants.html How to: Pot Aquarium Plants in Topsoil by Betty Harris]
 
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20100124200526/http://www.aquabotanic.com/diana_walstad_gallery.htm Diana Walstad Gallery] (Archived link)
 
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20100124200526/http://www.aquabotanic.com/diana_walstad_gallery.htm Diana Walstad Gallery] (Archived link)
 
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20080111195719/http://www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biological_filtration.htm PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION by Diana Walstad] (Archived link)
 
*[http://web.archive.org/web/20080111195719/http://www.aquabotanic.com/plants_and_biological_filtration.htm PLANTS and BIOLOGICAL FILTRATION by Diana Walstad] (Archived link)

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